Parrots are impressive, beautiful, colorful, entertaining pets to have. They make wonderful companions. Many parrots are bought on impulse in pet stores. Most first-time bird owners acquire their birds this way. In fact, my first pet bird, a Quaker parakeet, was purchased from a pet store. Fortunately, it worked out, but many times the bird ends up sold within a few months to a year by the disillusioned owner.

The large Amazons, macaws and cockatoos may impress your friends, but have you considered the care they require, as well as the fact that these large birds can live to be over 100 years old? Even if you were very young when acquiring such a large bird (which is not advisable), it would likely still outlive you. What will you do with the bird when you are no longer able to care for it? Parrots bond closely to their owners, and grieve and become depressed when they lose their beloved companion. Whoever takes over care of the bird must be understanding, as well as being educated as to the care of the parrot.

Even the small parrots have long lifespans. The tiny 6” parrotlets can live for more than 20 years. Choosing a parrot as a pet is a lifelong commitment. The decision should not be made lightly. Some things you should consider before acquiring a parrot:

NOISE: Most conure species, as well as Quaker parakeets, have an ear-piercing screech that most people cannot tolerate.

On the good side, these birds are intelligent and entertaining pets with great talking ability. Amazons, macaws, cockatoos and African greys can give you a bad reputation with your neighbors (unless they live a few miles away). Pionus, and some of the medium-sized Poicephalus, such as Senegals and Meyer’s, are reputed to be not as loud as other parrots of their size. Of course, some people have different opinions. Each bird is an individual. Budgies, lovebirds, and parrotlets are not very loud, and they have no ability to scream. Before deciding on a certain species, consider your tolerance for noise. A healthy parrot is a vocal parrot. They should not be punished for talking, screeching, or screaming, just as children should not be punished for laughing or crying. Some screaming is a cry for attention or something else that is missing in their life. Try to understand the behavior and work with the bird. Parrots are very intelligent and in-tune with our emotions. A high-strung, stressed person will have a high-strung, stressed bird that screams a lot.

MESS: At least a third of whatever you feed your parrot will end up on the floor under the cage.

Some of it is accidental, some on purpose. I can sit and watch my Quaker dig through his vegetable dish, eating a few bites, then picking a piece up and dropping it between the cagebars, uneaten. Perhaps he’s trying to feed my dog. Parrots are very messy. Besides food, there are also feathers, as well as droppings everywhere. Consider sweeping a part of your daily routine with a parrot in the house.

ATTENTION: Parrots need attention!

They are social, flock animals. A parrot left alone in a cage for long periods of time will be a depressed, lethargic, untrusting animal. Parrots thrive on attention, and they must have it every day whether you feel like it or not. Pet parrots must be allowed out of their cages everyday to stretch their wings, explore and spend time interacting with you. You can never truly appreciate the intelligent, endearing, sometimes comical qualities of a parrot unless you do this. Two parrots are not betterthan one. If the birds are to remain tame, each needs individual time with you daily. They should not be housed together, but require separate cages. A single parrot, given lots of attention, makes a wonderful companion. Wild, untamed parrots should be in the hands of caring, responsible breeders. Only domestic-bred, hand-fed, tame parrots should be purchased as pets.

SPACE: Parrots require space, and lots of it!

Both small and large parrots are active, playful, and curious. They need room to climb, stretch their wings, rest, preen, eat, and play with their toys confined in ther cage. In my opinion, a cage 12” sq. is too small even for the smallest. A square or rectangular cage of at least 15” would be suitable for a Budgie or parrotlet. A cage 20” sq. would accommodate a Quaker or similar sized bird. Tall, round cages are inappropriate for any type bird. Large parrots, especially macaws and cockatoos, require very large cages. Besides taking up space, bird cages are fairly expensive. Be sure to purchase a well-made, safe, easy-to-clean model.

FEEDING: A bird cannot live by seed alone!

A birdseed-only diet causes malnutrition, illness, and shortened lifespan. Besides being nutritional, food offers psychological stimulation for parrots. The bird should have a pelleted or seed diet daily plus a variety of vegetables (carrots, corn, broccoli, spinach, collard greens, peas, green beans, cauliflower, etc.) Dark green and yellow vegetables offer the most nutrition. A few pieces of fruit (apple, pear, peach, strawberries, kiwi, etc.). Good foods are cooked brown rice, pasta or beans. Avocado is toxic. Parrots love to eat whatever you eat! Sharing your meal helps them feel closer to you, like part of the family.

CLEANLINESS: In the wild, birds can remove themselves from soiled areas. Confined in a cage, they cannot do this.

No bird will remain happy and healthy in a dirty cage. Newspaper in the tray under the cage is easy to change daily. Don’t use colored pages which contain toxins. Once weekly the cage should be scrubbed clean and dried. Soiled perches should be removed and cleaned or replaced. Perches should be dry before returning them to the cage.

PIP 7-95 Pet Information Pages are publications of Bird Clubs of America, Dick Ivy, editor. P.O. Box 2005, Yorktown, VA 23692. May be reproduced.
*Leslie is organizer and president of the club.
This was taken from their newsletter May’94, edited slightly to fit.
**Please Note: Quaker parakeets are illegal in Pennsylvania.